Dubrovnik to Bosnia: A Journey Through Orthodox Christian Land

This summer, my family and I embarked on a heartfelt journey through the lesser-known yet deeply influential lands of Orthodox Christianity, from Dubrovnik to Bosnia. Join us as we explore the hidden gems, rich history, spiritual sites, and beautiful landscapes that define this incredible region.

✨ Introduction

This summer of 2024, my family and I embarked on a journey that held deep significance for us. My wife is from Bosnia & Herzegovina, a country she had to leave as a refugee when the war started in the early 90s. Although the war ended in the late 90s, she never had the chance to return and visit her homeland. She often spoke nostalgically about her childhood in Bosnia, sharing memories and expressing her desire for us to experience the place she once called home. Finally, this summer, thanks to her dad’s meticulous planning, we made our way from Dubrovnik (Croatia), to Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina). It was a journey not just through physical landscapes but also through the rich tapestry of Orthodox Christianity that defines the region.

🌅 Starting Our Trip in Dubrovnik, Croatia

1. Discovering Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik, often called the "Pearl of the Adriatic," was our starting point. Nestled on the Dalmatian coast, this historic city is surrounded by the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea and dotted with beautiful islands like Lokrum and Mljet. 

Dubrovnik's iconic city walls, built in the 13th century to protect against invasions, still stand tall, offering a glimpse into its storied past. These walls, stretching nearly 2 kilometers and fortified with towers, provided a formidable defense against invaders, including the Ottoman Empire. The city's strategic importance is evident in its well-preserved medieval architecture, which showcases the ingenuity of its builders. The old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets, baroque buildings, and historic landmarks like the Sponza Palace and Rector's Palace, each telling a story of Dubrovnik's rich history.

Orthodox Christians have been a part of Dubrovnik's diverse religious tapestry for centuries. Despite being a predominantly Catholic city, Dubrovnik has always been a place where different faiths coexisted. The Serbian Orthodox community established a presence here in the 19th century, building the Church of the Holy Annunciation as a symbol of their faith and cultural heritage. This church, along with other Orthodox sites in the region, highlights the historical significance and enduring presence of Orthodox Christians in Dubrovnik.

2. Visiting Local Beaches and Surrounding Islands

We spent five glorious days in Dubrovnik, each day exploring a different beach where my wife and her family spent their summers. The beaches here, such as Banje Beach which we visited on our first day, offer stunning views of the city walls and the azure Adriatic Sea. We also ventured to the beautiful islands of Lokrum and Mljet. 

Lokrum, about a 10-minute boat ride from the old town, is known for its lush botanical garden, peacocks, and the Benedictine monastery that dates back to the 11th century. It's also where parts of "Game of Thrones" were filmed, adding a touch of modern pop culture to its historical charm.

Mljet, further afield, is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and the legendary Odysseus Cave, believed to be where the Greek hero was shipwrecked. The island, largely a national park, features saltwater lakes and dense forests, making it a paradise for nature lovers. 

However, the region’s charm was somewhat marred by the high prices – our dinner for five in Cavtat, a regular meal in a non-fancy restaurant, set us back a whopping $300! Despite the expense, the experience of dining with a view of the Adriatic was unparalleled.

In Dubrovnik, history and modernity blend seamlessly, offering a unique experience that caters to both the history buff and the casual tourist. Whether strolling through the ancient streets of the old town, lounging on its pristine beaches, or exploring the nearby islands, Dubrovnik promises a memorable adventure.

3. The Orthodox Church of the Holy Annunciation

History of the Church

One of the highlights of our stay in Dubrovnik was visiting the Orthodox Church of the Holy Annunciation, located in the heart of the old town. This small yet beautiful church, dating back to the 19th century, was constructed to serve the Serbian Orthodox community in Dubrovnik. Built in 1877, it stands as a testament to the city's religious diversity and its historical significance as a melting pot of cultures. The church is adorned with stunning icons and frescoes that narrate the life of Christ and the saints, showcasing the rich tradition of Orthodox Christian art.

The Church of the Holy Annunciation was constructed during a period of significant development for the Serbian Orthodox community in Dubrovnik. The church's architecture reflects the Byzantine style, characterized by its intricate mosaics and frescoes. The interior walls are covered with beautiful murals painted by renowned artists of the time, illustrating various biblical scenes and the lives of saints. This church has been a spiritual haven for Orthodox Christians in Dubrovnik for over a century, playing a crucial role in maintaining their religious and cultural identity.

Visiting the Church

As we entered the church, we felt overwhelmed by a sense of peace and belonging. It felt like we were back home after a long trip. We had missed the services at St. Luke, our church in California, and were glad to kiss the icons of Christ and the Virgin Mary as we walked to the front. The church was quite small, which surprised us. We always thought St. Luke was small compared to many churches in California, but the Church of the Holy Annunciation made it seem like a cathedral. The intimate setting enhanced the spiritual atmosphere, allowing us to connect deeply with our faith.

We walked around this holy place for some time, contemplating the beautiful murals and ornaments before making our way out. The intricate details of the frescoes, depicting scenes from the Bible and the lives of saints, captivated us. Each brushstroke told a story, preserving the legacy of Orthodox Christianity in the region. The church's iconostasis, a wall of icons and religious paintings separating the nave from the sanctuary, is particularly noteworthy. It includes exquisite representations of the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ, and various saints, all crafted with meticulous attention to detail.

Visiting The Store

Before leaving the church, we stopped at the icon shop located by the entrance. This store had icons from Croatia, Bosnia, and many other surrounding countries. We were amazed by the iconographic differences between those countries. The shop offered a wide array of religious artifacts, from traditional Byzantine-style icons to unique local interpretations. We were looking for icons to buy for our home, but my wife’s dad advised us to wait as we were going to make a stop at an Orthodox monastery on our way to Bosnia, which had a greater selection. Also, knowing how pricey everything was here, we decided to wait. The prices, reflective of Dubrovnik's tourist economy, were indeed high, reinforcing our decision to wait for more affordable options in Bosnia.

This visit to the Church of the Holy Annunciation enriched our stay in Dubrovnik, offering us a profound spiritual experience and a deeper appreciation for the Orthodox heritage that connects us to this beautiful region. This church, with its rich history and cultural significance, stands as a beacon of faith and tradition in the heart of Dubrovnik, reminding us of the enduring legacy of Orthodox Christianity.

After our enriching stay in Dubrovnik, we set off on the next leg of our trip, eager to explore the diverse and historic landscapes of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Leaving behind the azure waters of the Adriatic and the ancient walls of Dubrovnik, we packed our bags and looked forward to new adventures. The road ahead promised emotional connections, fascinating histories, and a deeper appreciation for the cultural richness that awaited us in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

🚗 Through Herzegovina by Road

1. Crossing the Bosnian Border to Orthodox Land

After our memorable stay in Dubrovnik, we crossed the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina, heading towards Sarajevo. Herzegovina, the southern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina, presented a stark contrast to Dubrovnik’s lush greenery. The landscape following the border crossings turned dry and rocky, dotted with small villages and numerous cemeteries and monuments commemorating civilian victims of past conflicts. Herzegovina is a region with a rich history, known for its medieval castles, vineyards, and ancient Christian monasteries. It is an area that has witnessed many historical changes, from the Roman period to the Ottoman Empire and Austro-Hungarian rule.

Orthodox Christianity has deep roots in Herzegovina. The region is home to several ancient monasteries and churches that have played significant roles in the religious and cultural life of the area. These sites, such as the Žitomislić Monastery and the Tvrdos Monastery, have been centers of Orthodox faith and learning for centuries, enduring periods of turmoil and conflict. As we traveled through Herzegovina, we saw many Orthodox crosses marking these historical and spiritual sites, reminding us of the resilience and devotion of the Orthodox Christian community.

Our journey through Herzegovina was an emotional one. As our driver recounted the tragic stories of massacres that took place since World War II, we couldn’t help but shed tears and pray for the souls of the departed. The region’s history is soaked in blood, and each monument told a tale of unimaginable sorrow. However, our spirits lifted as we reached our first stop, the Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple near the town of Trebinje.

2. The Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple

Our spirits lifted as we reached our first stop, a little over an hour drive away from the border, the Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple near the town of Trebinje. Perched on a hill, this beautiful temple offers a serene place of worship and reflection. The monastery’s icons not only depict the life of Christ and the apostles but also tell the story of the region.

History and Significance

The Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple is modeled after the original Gračanica Monastery in Kosovo, a significant site for Serbian Orthodox Christians. The temple was built in 2000, funded by Jovan Dučić, a famous Serbian poet and diplomat, who wished for a place of worship in his hometown. The temple stands as a testament to the enduring faith and cultural heritage of the Serbian Orthodox community in Herzegovina.

This temple is not only a place of worship but also a cultural and historical landmark. Its construction symbolizes the revival of Orthodox Christianity in the region after years of turmoil. The architecture reflects traditional Serbian-Byzantine styles, with intricate frescoes and mosaics that narrate biblical stories and the lives of saints. The temple's hilltop location offers a panoramic view of Trebinje and the surrounding landscape, adding to its spiritual ambiance.

The Icon Shop

Before leaving, we visited the temple’s icon shop, located just inside the entrance. A great place to find the icons we were looking for. The shop was a treasure trove of Orthodox Christian art, featuring a wide array of icons from Bosnia and other surrounding countries. Each icon telling a unique story of faith and tradition, reflecting the rich artistic heritage of the Orthodox Christian world.

The store also offered a variety of religious artifacts, including crosses, prayer books, and handmade rosaries. Many of the icons are crafted by local artisans from the surrounding area, ensuring each piece is unique. We were particularly drawn to the intricate details and vibrant colors that characterize Orthodox iconography.

It was a good idea to wait to purchase our icons. Unlike in Dubrovnik, where the prices were prohibitively high, we found the icons here to be beautiful and affordable. And we could use our credit card with no extra cost, which was an unexpected surprise. We purchased a couple of beautiful icons, a small but meaningful way to remember our visit and to bring a piece of this sacred place back home with us.

Despite our interest, we had to move on, urged by Grandpa and the kids. We left with a deeper appreciation for the spiritual and artistic heritage of the region, carrying with us the serene beauty of the Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple.

3. Ljubinje and The Orthodox Church of Stara Crkva

Our journey continued to Ljubinje, where we were warmly greeted by my wife’s relatives, Boba, Ranko, and their son Balcha. Practicing my Bosnian with a cheerful “dobar dan” (hello), we stepped into their home, adorned with beautiful icons of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and their family’s patron, St. Michael. After a delicious homemade Turkish coffee, we listened to nostalgic stories from Ranko and my father-in-law. As the evening cooled, we walked outside and strolled through the town, visiting the newly built Orthodox church and my wife’s grandmother’s home. The new Orthodox church, although modern, continued the tradition of Orthodox architecture. Our evening culminated in a wonderful dinner, followed by a delightful guitar performance by Ranko and his son, accompanied by Boba’s generous beer-pouring to encourage singing. It was an amazing day, and a wonderful evening filled with joy and music. One we will never forget!

The next day, after a quick breakfast and paying respects at the cemetery, we left for Sarajevo. We made a brief stop at Ranko’s “real Orthodox Church.” A small yet beautiful place of worship with frescoes depicting both religious stories and memories of past massacres. Known as the Old Church or Stara Crkva, its official name is the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin. This church, built in the 16th century, is one of the oldest Serbian Orthodox churches in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The frescoes inside are some of the finest examples of Orthodox Christian art in the region, depicting scenes from the life of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and various saints. We shed tears, prayed, and continued our journey, passing through Herzegovina's dry terrain into the lush green mountains of Bosnia.

🕌 Sarajevo, Bosnia

1. The Road to Sarajevo

On our journey to Sarajevo, we made a memorable stop in Mostar, a city rich with Ottoman influence and famous for its Stari Most bridge, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Neretva River flows through the heart of the city, and the old bazaar’s narrow streets and cobbled paths add to its charm. Mostar was a crucial center of trade and culture during the Ottoman era. Its Old Bridge, originally built in the 16th century by Mimar Hayruddin, an apprentice of the renowned architect Mimar Sinan, symbolizes the city's historical significance and resilience.

Orthodox Christianity also has a significant presence in Mostar, with several churches and monasteries serving the local Orthodox community. Notable sites include the Church of the Holy Trinity, which stands as a testament to the city's religious diversity and its historical role as a crossroads of different cultures and faiths. These Orthodox sites not only serve as places of worship but also as custodians of the rich cultural heritage of the region.

After taking pictures at the iconic bridge and enjoying a quick drink, we continued our journey to Sarajevo. Just outside the city, we stopped at a renowned restaurant for a lamb feast. The wait was long, but the roasted lamb was worth it—so delicious that I nearly forgot my manners and devoured most of the 2 kilos served! Re-energized, we continued to Sarajevo, arriving in no time.

2. Discovering Sarajevo

A City Steeped in History

Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city layered with history, from the vestiges of the Ottoman Empire and the Austro-Hungarian era to the scars left by the Bosnian War. Founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century, Sarajevo quickly grew into a vibrant cultural and trade center. The city is known for its religious diversity, where mosques, churches, and synagogues stand in close proximity, earning it the nickname "Jerusalem of Europe."

The city's architecture reflects its diverse heritage. Walking through Sarajevo feels like stepping back in time, with each building bearing witness to its tumultuous past. The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, built in 1530, stands as a testament to the city's Islamic heritage, while the Latin Bridge is infamous for being the site where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, an event that triggered World War I. The Austro-Hungarian influence is visible in the grandiose buildings and the city's layout, which blends European and Ottoman styles seamlessly.

Sarajevo's more recent history includes the Siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian War in the 1990s. The war left deep scars on the city, with bullet-riddled buildings and memorials reminding visitors of the conflict. Despite this, Sarajevo has emerged resilient, maintaining its rich cultural heritage while embracing a hopeful future.

Our Visit to Sarajevo

Our visit to Sarajevo was a deeply moving experience, filled with exploration and reflection. We stayed at the famous Hotel Europe, located by the old town. This historic hotel, built in 1882, has hosted numerous dignitaries and celebrities over the years. Its luxurious interiors and rich history make it a significant landmark in the city, offering a glimpse into Sarajevo's opulent past.

- Exploring Baščaršija:

On our first day, we ventured into Baščaršija, the historic old bazaar. The bazaar was bustling with life, and its cobbled streets and narrow alleys were lined with shops selling traditional crafts, coffeehouses, and eateries. We indulged in local delicacies like cevapi and burek, savoring the flavors of Bosnian cuisine. The cevapcici, in particular, were a highlight; everyone had told us they are best in Sarajevo, and they did not disappoint.

- An Emotional Walk Around Town:

Under the guidance of my father-in-law, Alex, we took an emotional walk around town. Alex shared stories of their lives before the war, making our visit deeply personal and poignant. We saw the place where he studied to become a doctor, my mother-in-law's place of work, my wife's school, and the apartment complex where they used to live. As my wife shed tears, remembering her childhood, she highlighted that these places, now covered with graffiti and bullet holes, used to be modern and well-maintained. The stark contrast between the past and present was heartbreaking. I wondered why, over two decades after the brutal conflict, the city is still in such poor condition. The scars of the war are left bare on the walls, serving as a testament to the horrors of this conflict.

- The Old Sports Center and Olympic Pride:

We also visited the old sports center, which still proudly displays the emblem of Sarajevo's pride: the 1984 Winter Olympics. This once grand facility, now worn by time, holds memories of a more prosperous era. Alex used to play professional basketball as a student, and it was with nostalgia that he shared memories of his past, including those with his old friend, Mirza Delibašić, who is considered Bosnia's best player of all time. A statue of Delibašić now stands by the entrance of the complex, a poignant reminder of the city's glorious sporting history.

Touring this once glorious city was not only emotional for my wife and father-in-law but for me as well. The entire town seemed trapped in time, with its architecture, old cars, and even the interiors of the buildings evoking a bygone era. This trip felt like jumping back in time, reminding me of my own childhood during the 80s. Our visit to Sarajevo was a journey through history, personal memories, and the resilience of a city and its people. The blend of nostalgia, sorrow, and the enduring spirit of Sarajevo left an indelible mark on our hearts.

Orthodoxy in Sarajevo

- History of Orthodoxy in Sarajevo:

Orthodox Christianity plays a crucial role in Sarajevo's cultural tapestry. The Orthodox community in Sarajevo has a long history, with roots dating back to the Middle Ages. During the Ottoman period, despite the dominance of Islam, Orthodox Christians maintained their faith and traditions. The Ottoman Empire's millet system allowed religious communities some autonomy, enabling the Orthodox Church to preserve its practices and cultural identity.

One of the oldest and most significant Orthodox institutions in Sarajevo is the Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel. Established in the 16th century, it stands as a testament to the resilience and continuity of the Orthodox faith in the city. This church houses a valuable collection of icons and manuscripts, highlighting the rich artistic and cultural heritage of the Orthodox community.

Throughout the Austro-Hungarian period, the Orthodox Church in Sarajevo experienced a revival. New churches were built, and existing ones were restored, reflecting the community's growth and resilience. The Serbian Orthodox Seminary in Sarajevo, founded in the late 19th century, became a center for theological education and cultural preservation, contributing significantly to the religious and intellectual life of the Orthodox population.

- Orthodoxy Today:

Today, Orthodox Christianity continues to be an integral part of Sarajevo's religious landscape. The Orthodox community actively participates in the city's cultural and social life, celebrating religious festivals and maintaining their traditions. Despite the challenges of the past, the Orthodox community in Sarajevo remains vibrant and dedicated to preserving their faith and heritage. Churches like the Holy Transfiguration Church and the Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos serve as important religious and cultural centers, fostering a sense of community and continuity.

- A Comparison of Orthodoxy in Sarajevo vs. Herzegovina Region:

Comparing this with our experiences in Herzegovina, it became clear that the Orthodox presence was stronger in the rural region of Herzegovina compared to the large city of Sarajevo. In Herzegovina, the Orthodox presence is deeply embedded in the rural landscape, with ancient monasteries like Tvrdos playing central roles in the spiritual and communal life of the region. These monasteries often serve not only as places of worship but also as cultural and historical repositories, preserving the heritage of Orthodoxy through their art, manuscripts, and traditions.

In contrast, Sarajevo's Orthodox community is more urban and integrated into the city's diverse religious tapestry. The historical resilience and revival of Orthodoxy in Sarajevo during the Austro-Hungarian period reflect a different kind of endurance, one that thrived amidst a multicultural urban environment. While Herzegovina’s Orthodox sites often feel like sanctuaries of a long-standing rural tradition, Sarajevo’s churches and institutions showcase a vibrant urban Orthodoxy that has adapted and flourished in the heart of a bustling city.

Both regions, however, share a common thread of preserving and celebrating their Orthodox Christian heritage despite historical adversities. This dual experience of Orthodoxy—rural and urban—enriched our journey, offering a deeper understanding of how faith can shape and be shaped by its surroundings.

3. The Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos

Our visit to the Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos in Sarajevo during Pentecost was particularly moving. This grand cathedral, with its rich history and beautiful architecture, provided a familiar sense of warmth and connection. Built in the mid-19th century, the church is one of the largest Serbian Orthodox churches in Bosnia and Herzegovina and serves as a significant religious center for Orthodox Christians in the region.

Sparse Attendance and Cultural Differences

We were very happy to be able to be in the house of God during Pentecost. Having missed being in church, it was also our first time attending a service in a Serbian Orthodox church, adding to the excitement. However, we were very surprised by the sparse attendance. We had arrived later during the service and expected to find a full church, as would be the case in our church back in the States. Instead, we found only a few families in attendance, all looking at us with intrigue.

Observing Traditions and Engaging in Worship

Just like at home, families with young kids stood toward the back of the church, with little ones running around while parents took turns supervising them. A small group of people stood toward the altar, weaving something around a pile of leaves laying on the floor. This tradition piqued our curiosity, and we wondered about its significance.

After kissing the icons by the entrance of the church and paying our respects to the Lord, we knelt alongside the parishioners in attendance and took part in the service. The familiar chants and prayers, even in a language we didn't fully understand, brought a sense of peace and belonging. As we immersed ourselves in the worship, we felt a deep connection to the universal Orthodox Christian community.

However, our peaceful moment was interrupted as my father-in-law and our kids began pulling us to continue the tour. We would have liked to remain there until the end of the service, but we could not ignore the increasingly insistent call of our family. Despite having to leave earlier than we wished, we were grateful to have been part of this beautiful service and glad to be back in the house of our Lord. This experience reaffirmed our faith and reminded us of the strength and unity of the Orthodox Christian community, regardless of where we are in the world.

🏞 Conclusion

Our journey from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo was an unforgettable experience, filled with emotions and discoveries. It allowed my wife to reconnect with her roots and our children to gain a deeper understanding of their heritage. As Christian Orthodox, it was a remarkable opportunity to explore the rich traditions and practices of our faith in this beautiful region. From the stunning landscapes of the Dalmatian coast to the historic and spiritual landmarks in Bosnia and Herzegovina, every moment was cherished.

We spent our free time exploring the cobbled streets of Dubrovnik. Taking boat rides to the islands, and experiencing the natural wonder of the region. Traveling through small towns like Ljubinje and the bustling city of Sarajevo. We visited historic sites such as the Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos and Mostar’s famous bridge. Our fantastic guides enriched our understanding of the local culture. And we enjoyed traditional Bosnian cuisine in many great places along the way. Despite the peak season and extra costs, we organized every part of the trip well. And using local currency such as the Bosnian Convertible Mark and Euros (The Croatian Kuna no longer being used) smoothed our journey.

Exploring the cultural diversity, history, and natural beauty of Bosnia and Herzegovina, from small towns to bustling cities, enriched our lives and deepened our appreciation for our Orthodox Christian heritage. This trip was not just a vacation but a meaningful pilgrimage that strengthened our faith and family bonds. We are immensely grateful for this journey. We hope to inspire others to embark on their own journeys of faith and discovery through Orthodox lands.

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